Articles

What Kayak is for Me?
by Scott Locorini

General Recreation Kayak:
A recreational kayak is for those who want to get out and paddle around on calm water without paddling for long distances.  These boats are easy to maneuver and rather stable, perfect for the beginner.   Recreational kayaks are also good for activities such as fishing, scuba diving and paddling with small children.

Touring Kayak:
Touring kayaks are longer and narrower than recreational and whitewater kayaks.  They are designed to slice through open water very efficiently, thus enabling the paddler to travel faster and with less effort. If you plan to paddle over large lakes or in the ocean these kayaks are perfect.  Since these kayaks are typically long and thus harder to turn, touring kayaks are often offered with rudders on them to aid in maneuvering the kayak. 

Whitewater Kayak:
Whitewater kayaks are used primarily on rivers and streams with fast flowing water and rapids.  Whitewater kayaks are shorter than touring kayaks because this helps them to turn quickly and easily and maneuver around rocks and other obstacles. Longer whitewater boats are typically designed for general river running, kayaks designed for steep creeks are usually shorter with a lot of volume, and whitewater playboats for playing around in rapids are shorter with less volume

Which one should I get?
So to determine which kayak is best for you, you first need to know what kind of water you will be paddling on. You also need to ask yourself other questions about your paddling objectives.  Here are the most basic questions to ask yourself:

• Where do I plan to paddle, on small lakes, swift moving rivers, large open bodies of water, or whitewater rivers?
• What are my primary reasons for buying a kayak, relaxation, exploring, excitement, exercise, or all of the above?
• How do I plan to use my kayak, just for paddling or to facilitate other pursuits such as fishing and camping?
• Do I need a one or two person kayak?

Once you have the answers to these questions you will need to know the basics of how kayaks work.  Factors such as length, width, shape of the hull and the rocker all affect how a kayak will perform in the water.

Length
The length of a kayak should give you an idea of how fast it can go.  Longer kayaks generally can travel faster than shorter kayaks and are easier to paddle in a straight line.  Shorter kayaks tend to be more maneuverable, they turn more easily which is great if you are avoiding rocks or paddling into tight places.  Touring kayaks are usually longer than the other types because they are often used for trips that will require paddling over a distance in wide open water and for carrying gear.   Whitewater and general recreation kayaks also vary in length based on the handling characteristics desired of each model.

Width
The width of a kayak is an important factor in stability and speed.  The wider a boat is the more stable it will be when getting into it, paddling, and getting out of it.  While a stable boat is nice, wider boats have two main drawbacks: speed (or lack thereof), and the increased effort required to paddle it.  The wider the boat, the more surface area is in contact with the water thus making it slower. Wide kayaks, because of their stability, tend to follow the surface of the water. In calm water when you tilt, the kayak doesn't tilt much. This advantage in calmer conditions can be a disadvantage in long trips over rough water, as the kayak reacts to the ever changing slope of the wave tossed open ocean, quickly fatiguing the kayaker with its extreme motions. A more "tippy" kayak ignores most of the motions of the passing waves.

Many kayak manufacturers offer several models of each kayak category. Some specialize in only one. There are many different manufacturers to chose from. Every kayak has different capabilities and characteristics. The best way to choose a kayak for your own use is to paddle as many of them in as many different conditions as possible. Rent several for extended day paddling. A kayak purchase based on a 15 minute test will likely lead to some disappointment. When you finally find one that pleases your eye, your mind, feels right and doesn't bust your wallet, a whole new adventure awaits.

What is the best boat?
Every boat is different and there is no best boat for all paddling conditions. Any boat is a trade off, features that work well in one set of conditions can compromise performance/handling in another set of conditions. You have to know what type of paddling conditions you want to paddle in before selecting a boat.

Multi-day expeditions dictate a different boat than morning explorations of an estuary or surf-zone excitement or teaching others to kayak.

One fundamental trade-off in boat design is tracking vs. turning. Generally a boat that tracks well (goes straight) does not turn as well as a boat that does not track well. There are varying degrees of these two characteristics in all boats, and some boats that track well can be made to turn better if you are willing and able to lean them when you turn, but if you're going to be turning a lot, buy a boat that turns, if you are going straight all day, buy a boat that tracks.

Another characteristic to consider is the initial stability of the boat. Initial (or primary) stability is the ease with which a boat starts to tip. Low initial stability will make the boat feel 'tender' or 'tippy'. A boat that is tender to sit in is going to be much more difficult to fish or take pictures out of, so if that's what you want to do, consider a boat with more initial stability. A boat with very high initial stability will be more difficult to handle in big waves, because it will tend to try to sit flat relative to the water rather than the horizon. The consequences of this tendency are left as an exercise for the reader.

Another thing to consider is the final stability of the boat. Final (or secondary) stability is the ease with which the boat tips all the way over. High final stability is desirable for any boat, but it may take some time to develop the balance and skill to take advantage of it.

Paddlers are all different. A boat will perform/handle differently for a tall person than for a short person, and for a heavy person than a light person. The fit of the cockpit will vary from boat to boat. A person's requirements for a boat may change as the person's skill level changes. Often, a person with advanced skills will be interested in different boat features than a person with beginner/intermediate skills.

How much of a consideration is the weight of the boat?
If you need to haul the boat on and off the top of the car, carry it any distance, or portage, this is an important characteristic. Lighter boats also tend to feel livelier in the water and are faster, although this is not as much of a consideration when you've got 300 pounds of boater and gear in the boat. In general, plastic is heavier than fiberglass is heavier than exotic materials like kevlar, carbon fiber, etc., but there are exceptions.

How important is the durability of the boat's construction?
If you want to drag your boat over rocks or drop it off a pier, this is an important consideration, but even if you don't abuse your boat, it wears in normal usage as well, so consider durability in your selection. In general, plastic stands up to abuse better than fiberglass, but is harder to repair. Keep in mind that in fiberglass construction, heavier is not necessarily stronger.

How much should I spend on a boat? ( USA prices)
Buy a boat you can afford, but if you find a boat you really like which is too expensive, it may be worthwhile to save your pennies until you can afford it. If you have a fixed price range you are interested in, it may be a good idea to only try boats in that price range, so you are satisfied with what you get. Plastic boats run $700-$1500, Fiberglass $1300-$2800, other materials tend to cost more. Sometimes you can find boats sold used for less, especially if a shop or outfitter is selling old boats from their rental fleet.

What should I look for when I'm trying a boat out?
The best way to choose a boat, and the only way to determine its paddling characteristics, is to try it, and you should take opportunities to try as many boats as you can to decide what you like. Many shops have demo days, and symposia are good opportunities to try boats. Try to find an opportunity to paddle in the conditions you are planning on using the boat in. Also, consider how the boat handles when it is loaded as well as unloaded. Things to think about when you are trying the boat are:

Does it feel comfortable just sitting in it?

Lean the boat onto it's side. Does it stop leaning or keep going and tip over? Is there a point where the resistance to leaning increases?

Paddle the boat into the wind, across the wind, with the wind behind you. How easy is it to keep on course? Does it turn into the wind (weathercocking) or out of the wind excessively? How fast is it?

How easy is the boat to turn?

These things test some of the fundamental characteristics of boat handling:

• Speed - a function of length, width, and hull shape.
• Tracking - ability of the boat to go straight.
• Maneuverability - ability of the boat to turn easily.
• Initial or primary stability - effort it takes to lean the boat off of an upright position.
• Final or secondary stability - effort it takes to tip the boat over.

Typical trade-offs:

• Tracking vs. Maneuverability
• Initial vs. Final Stability
• Speed vs. Stability

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Beginning Kayaking Equipment List
by Naomi Niskala

Many people don't realize that, to go kayaking, you need more than just a kayak and a paddle. This Equipment List for Beginning Kayakers is broken down into three sections:
       "The Gear You Need"
       "The Gear You WILL Need - Once You Know How To Use IT!"
       "The Optional Stuff."
"The Gear You Need" list is all of the equipment any person should have with them (or on them) when paddling a kayak. If you're about to go to a shop to purchase a kayak, be ready to purchase all of the items on the "Gear You Need" list. The "Gear you WILL Need" list has additional equipment (such as rescue equipment) that you should have once you've learned how to use it. Remember, rescue gear won't do you any help if you haven't had any hands-on experience in using it - take a class or lesson from a certified instructor who will teach you the proper ways to use your rescue equipment. The "Optional Stuff" list has equipment on it that you may or may not need depending on the type of water(s) you paddle, as well as items to make your paddling experience more comfortable.

The Gear You Need:

Kayak
Remember:  If there are no bulkheads in your kayak, there’s no floatation!  If your boat has no floatation, you can buy floatation bags to fit in the bow and stern.

Paddle
Choose the paddle that fits you and your boat (length-wise) and your paddling style (blade shape and size).

PFD (Personal Floatation Device)
U.S. Coast Guard approved, Type III or better.  Wear your PFD!  Don't strap it to your deck, and definitely don't stow it away in your cockpit or in a hatch!!

Audible Warning Device
Whistle – this can be attached to your PFD

Proper clothing
Remember:  Dress for the water temperature – NOT the air temperature!
Your paddling clothing should be of quick-drying synthetic material that can be layered and that will provide the proper warmth (ie: fuzzy neoprene, spandex, capilene). You should also have a layer of wind-protection.

Proper footwear
Sandals (such as Tevas or Chacos – NO flipflops), neoprene booties, or well fitting water shoes – something that will protect your feet AND stay on.

One Dry Bag
There are two kinds – the ones with the roll down top (a “damp” bag) and the real water-tight “ziploc” sealed bags (such as Watershed). Get a size that will fit a change of clothes and/or lunch AND also fit easily into your hatch opening.

Water bottle

Transportation System
A rack system (or foam blocks) and straps for car-topping your boat safely.

 

The Gear You WILL Need - Once You Know How To Use It!

Paddle Float
This can be “ready to go” (foam block kind) or inflatable.

Pump

Stirrup
For help in re-entries – this can be made from waterline (rope that floats).

Extra paddle
A break-down paddle so that it can be easily strapped to your deck.

Spray-skirt
This can be either nylon or neoprene – and it will need to fit both you (your waist) and your boat’s cockpit size.

First-Aid Kit

Tow Rope

 The Optional Stuff:

Extra dry bags
Warning Devices
signal horn and/or signaling mirror

Paddling-specific spray jacket
This will have neoprene wrists and neck, will be relatively water and wind-proof, and may or may not be breathable.

Paddling clothing:  wet and dry
Wet-suits (“Farmer John/Jane” suits) that are neoprene – they will let the water in, but will provide insulation and some warmth when in the water.
Dry gear: Dry suits or dry top that will keep you dry – they are waterproof and have neck, wrist, and ankle rubber gaskets, and may or may not be breathable.

Paddle Leash
This will allow you to attach your paddle to your boat.

Bow Line
Some kind of rope that will allow you to tie your boat up by shore so it doesn’t get pulled away by waves (or tide) – it can even be your stirrup rope.

Deck Compass
GPS
Map Case
This clear “ziploc” seal case holds a map and can be attached to your deck in front of the cockpit.

Gear Bag
This mesh “duffle” bag is a convenient way to carry your (wet) gear to and from the water.

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Let's Be Careful!
by Scott Locorini

Sergeant Phil Esterhaus from “Hill Street Blues” used that line before sending his officers out to the streets. I think it is applicable for us paddlers here as well. After a long winter dreaming about open water, many of us just want to get on the water. And so, in our haste, we often forget to address some basic safety issues.

Imagine this: it’s a beautiful sunny spring day, about 70 degrees when you sneak out of the office to hit the water. You rush home, load your gear, throw on a light layer of paddling clothes (don’t want to get too hot while paddling) and head for the water. You have your favorite paddling spot all to yourself and the birds are singing. You’re having a grand time soaking it all up, paddling across the calm water. And suddenly the next thing you know is you’re perched on top of a rock, you lose your balance, and you’re upside down.

After the initial shock of the 38 degree water you regain your wits and wet exit. Thankfully you see that you are only about 30 feet from the closest shore and begin swimming in with your boat, but after a few minutes it seems like you aren’t getting any closer and you’re exhausted. You struggle for a few more minutes and then thankfully realize that you can touch bottom. With your last ounce of energy you drag your boat up and collapse on shore.

This is when it hits you: you’re shivering uncontrollably, your hands aren’t working and you have no strength left. There isn’t anyone else on the water, your cell phone is soaked, you’re on the wrong side of the lake and about three miles from your car, the temperature has dropped 20 degrees, and it’s going to be dark in an hour. In your rush to get on the water you didn’t bother to tell anyone where you were going.

This scenario is a compilation of several real-life stories that I’ve heard from students over the years. This type of scenario is real, and it can happen to you anywhere from the Adirondacks of New York to the Gulf Coast of Florida. (Does anyone remember the Army Ranger trainees who died of hypothermia in Florida?)

The best way to avoid this situation is to plan ahead:

• Always let someone know where you’re going. Even if it’s just a phone message.
• Never paddle alone. I know that this is a hard one to adhere to, but if you are going to paddle alone, go to a place where you are likely to run into other people.
• Dress for the water, not for the air temperature. I constantly hear the “but I’m hot and uncomfortable,” etc., excuse. A little discomfort can pay huge dividends if you end up in the water.
• Learn what clothes and materials are appropriate for paddling (in other words, don’t wear jeans and a t-shirt). If your clothing is breathable, it will help alleviate some of the discomfort issues.
• Learn how to self-rescue and practice the rescues! Take a class, join a club, and learn the appropriate rescues for your type of boat. Don’t just read about them or watch a video. You need to practice them under various conditions for them to work when you need them to.
• Carry some sort of first aid/emergency gear and know how to use it! By this I don’t mean a defibrillator (or even a cell phone). I’m talking about basic stuff that you can take with you on each outing, such as a basic first aid kit along with fire starting material and emergency heat sources. This can be the difference between an uncomfortable story, and something much worse.

So before you head out this spring, put together a small first aid/emergency kit to carry with you, get some appropriate clothing and wear it, practice rescues at a local pool, and find a paddling partner. And remember, “let’s be careful out there.”

 

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Kayak Trip Packing and Planning
by Scott Locorini

You finally have a three-day weekend and it’s time to head out and try out that new touring kayak! You rush home from work on Friday night, toss all your gear in the car, and off you go. After a few hours drive, you find a motel near the put-in and set your alarm for early the next morning. The next day at the put-in there is an explosion of gear: pots, pans, stove, miscellaneous food items bought en-route, tent, and all the other “toys” that need to go along for the weekend cover the ground. After filling your boat for about thirty minutes you realize there is no way all this stuff is going to fit! What should you take? What should you leave? It’s three hours later but you’ve finally got all your necessities loaded and you’re off and paddling. You stop to take a quick break for lunch, but at that point you realize that all your lunch items are packed in your stern hatch, snugly behind your clothes, tent, sleeping bag, and cookware. Maybe some pre-trip planning would have been a good idea…

I see this all the time at put-ins all around the country, and I also have to admit to being guilty of it myself. We all want to get on the water as much as possible, so when an opportunity arises we tend to toss everything (including the kitchen sink) in the car and head to the water. The thought is that you can then sort the gear out at the put-in. But once you’re at the put-in it looks like a gear bomb went off: your gear is covering the launch and other users are walking over and around your stuff. It’s an ugly scene: you’re not having fun and others are getting annoyed!

Planning your expedition kayak trip begins at the store when you’re purchasing your kayak. Think about the pros and cons of different size and shape hatches, having or not having a day hatch, and how much room a skeg box can take up in the stern. Explain your needs to the salesperson and they will be able to point you in the right direction. Then once you’ve found your “perfect” boat, it’s time for the real fun to start! At home get all your camping gear, paddling clothes, dry bags, and stuff sacks out so they are all visible at the same time. Then start making checklists: you need a “must have items” and an “optional items” list. The “must have items” should include all your necessary camping items such as tent, sleeping bag and pad, lights, food, water carriers or purifiers, clothing, first aid, cookware, and utensils. The “optional items” list is all non-essential gear such as camp chair, camping oven, fishing rod and reel, camera, bird books, and binoculars. These are just examples: obviously each person’s needs and wants will vary slightly. If you need help in creating a checklist, many web-sites (including ours!) and expedition books contain them.

Next you need to figure out what goes where. As a general rule you want most of the heavier items close to the center of the boat and lighter items further out towards the bow and stern. For most water conditions you want your boat to trim out a little higher in the bow, maybe about an inch. Also keep in mind that you do not want any metal or batteries under your deck compass. Lay your gear alongside your boat in the proper places.

Once it’s all laid out, you need to figure out what dry bags will fit the items, and then if they will fit in the boat once packed. If you’re going to put several different items in a dry bag, separate them with stuff sacks. That way when you open the bag you’ll know that the red sack is lights, the yellow sack is lunch, and the blue sack is soap and toothpaste. Pack up the dry bags and start stuffing your boat: the idea is to get everything in the boat so that very little, or nothing, goes on your deck. The more you have on your deck the more your boat will be affected by wind. And, it’s not good to have to do a re-entry with a lot of gear on your back deck! Also, when packing your boat keep in mind which items will be used first, and make sure they are within easy-access. Once you’ve packed your boat at home and are happy with your set-up, remove the dry bags from each hatch and then keep each hatch’s contents together in a big stuff sack. Then label the sacks so you know which hatch the items go in. This may sound silly but you will forget!

If you’ve planned this way, the next time you get a chance to take off for a long weekend you’ll be able to grab your two or three stuff sacks, depending on how many hatches you have, and head to the water. Pack your food in advance into the smallest packages you can, with just the needed serving sizes. This will save room in your boat and make for less trash that you will have to carry back out. When you get to the put-in you can just lay your stuff sacks out next to their respective hatches, pack your hatches the same way you did at home, and get on the water! The packing process will be stress-free and quick. More importantly, you’ll have more time on the water doing what you enjoy most: paddling!

 

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Packing Checklist for Expedition Kayaking
by Naomi Niskala

The following is a checklist for expedition kayaking, broken down into two parts: "Must-Have Items" and "Optional Items." The "Must-Have" List is further broken down into a checklist of paddling and camping equipment, a checklist of safety/rescue equipment, and a checklist of paddling clothes. The "Optional Items" includes a list of items that you may need, depending on what type of water(s) you will be paddling on your trip and your location.

“Must-Have Items” List 

• boat
• paddle
• PFD (personal flotation device) – wear this when paddling – DO NOT place it on your deck or, worse yet, in your boat!!
• spray skirt
• extra paddle - have a break-down and strap it to your rear deck
• map and/or charts
• map or chart case (to be strapped to top deck)
• compass
• sun screen
• bug spray
• water bottle - at easy access
• water (1 gallon per day) or water purifier if fresh water (and not saltwater) is available
• tent
• tent stakes
• sleeping bag
• sleeping pad
• stove and fuel
• cooking pot(s) and utensils
• biodegradable soap and small sponge for washing dishes
• matches
• emergency fire starting kit
• camp food and lunch food (repacked to appropriate portions)
• light or headlamp
• extra batteries
• camp clothes
• biodegradable soap, toothpaste, etc.
• camp towel
• toilet paper and small shovel and/or carry-out containers

safety/rescue equipment:

• paddle float
• stirrup if needed
• pump …remember:  these are only useful if you know how to use them!
• signal horn
• whistle
• signal mirror
• strobe on PFD
• boat repair kit
• first aid kit (this will vary greatly depending on your trip location and conditions and your own first aid knowledge and skills ) - have this easy-access!  (ie: day hatch)

paddling clothes: (this list will vary greatly depending on trip location and water temperature – remember, dress for the water temperature!)

• hat/cap
• sunglasses with a strap
• paddling gloves if needed
• splash jacket
• wet-suit or “Farmer John/Jane” suit if needed for water temperatures
• quick-drying bottoms and tops (capilene, synthetics, fleece, etc.) remember: “cotton kills!”
• extra wind-proof layer for stops along the way
• booties, paddling shoes, or water shoes

“Optional Items” List 

• tarp and rope
• paddle leash
• rope for a bow-line
• helmet (for surf landings or play)
• sail
• pillow
• camp chair
• camp oven
• coffee percolator or press
• lantern or candles
• book(s)
• fishing rod and reel
• camera
• binoculars

The following items may be necessary depending on trip location/type of waters:

• GPS
• tide charts
• VHF radio/weather radio
• EPRIB
• cellular phone
• radar deflector (anything metal)
• flares
• tow rope

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Keeping Out of Trouble - Whitewater Kayaking
by Scott Locorini

There are many risks connected with whitewater sport, and keeping clear of them is a challenge for paddlers of all abilities. Learning and practicing river rescue skills are the responsibility of each individual who takes place in these activities. River rescue training gives paddlers the knowledge and skill to maintain their confidence, take decisive action and work together effectively.

However, it seems that too much emphasis is placed on what to do after an accident has happened. Have you ever seen a class on developing judgment? The goal of paddling whitewater is to have an enjoyable river trip without any mishaps. Below you will find 10 bullet points that will help you keep out of trouble.

1.    Develop River Judgment – Keep in mind that safe recovery from some situations is unlikely.

• Accept Personal Limits – The difference between expert and intermediate level paddlers is not attitude. It is experience, technique and comfort level.
• Assess the big picture – Take into account your groups strengths and weaknesses and environmental factors such as water temperature and level.
• Look at the consequences and options.
• Accidents are usually caused by a series of small miscalculations.
• Fear is good… However it will limit your skills by stiffening muscles and reducing reaction time.
• Fearlessness does not equal skill!

2.    River Classification – Know where you are! Don’t blindly trust the person in front of you. Classifications change with water level, water temperature, overall group skill and remoteness of river.

3.    Set reasonable goals – If you have a 50% pool roll don’t paddle high volume class IV just because it’s the only thing with water that weekend. Smart paddlers progress slowly and can make every move they want on class III before moving on.

4.    Party Size – Don’t paddle alone but group size should be limited to a manageable size. The perfect group size varies according to conditions. You need to take into account that it often takes 2 paddlers to rescue 1 swimmer however you don’t want the group so large that there are group management issues like moving too slowly, boat collisions and bottlenecks.

5.   Group Management – Often neglected nowadays but an appointed lead and sweep boat on the river is a must to control the group. In the event of an accident you know where everyone should be.

6.   To Scout or Not – When in doubt… scout. Whether it is a blind drop or a long high volume rapid. If you don’t know it, don’t take another’s word for it. You don’t necessarily have to get out of your boat, you may be able to ferry above the rapid and get a good enough look. If you’re still not happy get out. If your group gives you a hard time about it, you have the option of not paddling with them again.

7.   Set Safety – Again, when in doubt set it up! If your paddling partners don’t want to set safety for you there is always the option of walking.

8.    Time Management – Don’t set yourself up for finishing the run in the dark.

9.   River Signals – The AWA (American Whitewater Association) has universal river signals that you should know and use. The most common misuse in this category is the whistle. The whistle should only be used true emergencies.

10.   River Etiquette –

• Before leaving the group to empty your boat or attend to the call of nature let someone know.
• Downstream traffic always the right of way.
• Don’t tailgate.
• Stay off the eddy line in large eddies.

If you think about these points each time you’re on the river it could help you avoid a bad situation someday.
Be safe and have fun!!

 

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Kayak Fishing vs. Canoe Fishing
by Scott Locorini

With the recent explosion of kayak fishing you might be thinking that it’s about time to get rid of the old canoe and try one of those new fan-dangled kayak contraptions. Everyone else is doing it, so why not you?

There are pros and cons to each craft, and ultimately only you can decide what is best for you. But here are some things to consider when making the decision:

• Cold water vs. warmwater: Most (but not all) of the new fishing kayaks are of the “sit on top” variety. This means that the chances of getting wet from splashing, waves, boat wakes and flopping fish are very real. Not a big deal if you always fish in 70 degree water, but a potential concern if you fish right after ice out in the Adirondacks like I do! If fishing out of a kayak, many northern kayak fishermen opt for sit inside kayaks, or they wear clothing that will keep them dry when fishing from their sit on top.
• Windage: Canoes are notorious for being hard to control on windy days. This is due to the amount of freeboard (how much canoe sits above the waterline). If there is a lot of boat above the waterline, it is very easy for the wind to catch hold and take control. Kayaks ordinarily have much less material above the waterline and are therefore not as susceptible to the wind.
• Paddle ease: “Kayaks are easier to paddle than canoes!” This is a very common statement heard nowadays. Yes, it’s probably true that it’s easier for most folks to hop in a kayak and make it go in a relatively straight line with little practice. However, a well designed solo canoe will do the same with a little practice or instruction, and it can even be paddled with a two-bladed kayak paddle.
• Carrying capacities: To state the obvious: a canoe holds more gear than a kayak, and with a canoe you can just toss your gear inside (which doesn’t work for a kayak). With a sit inside kayak, gear gets stored inside the boat, and in some boats it has to fit through the hatch opening. Sit on top kayaks for fishing have specified holders for your gear, which means you can’t just throw it on top. But then, you may ask, what if I just want to carry enough gear for a day of fishing? You also have to look at ease of getting your gear. In a canoe I can reach just about anywhere in the boat and grab what I need. In a sit on top kayak I can rig it so that most of what I’ll need is within reach. But with a sit inside kayak you’re going to have limited or no access to access to your gear, especially if it’s closed off under your hatches.
• Carrying ease: If you’re carrying the boat from your car to the water this is often not that big an issue. However, if you’re carrying your craft for any distance, it is. You can purchase wheels for both canoes and kayaks that strap to the boat, so you can roll it along a trail or road. But if the trail you use to get to your favorite spot is full of rocks, bumps, and holes, wheels won’t work and you will have to carry your boat in. Canoes have been portaged for hundreds of years in wilderness areas with the aid of a neck thwart. You just put the canoe over your head and rest the thwart on your shoulders and away you go. Removable neck thwarts can also be purchased for sit inside kayaks, but remember that the kayak deck and possible narrow-ness of the kayak may make it more difficult to carry and balance. Sit on top kayaks are ordinarily designed to be carried by two people (one at each end), and they can not be carried over your head for any distance.
• Weight: I’m constantly hearing that kayaks are lighter than canoes. When I ask folks what kind of canoe they have paddled in the past, most of them say some kind of old heavy aluminum canoe. Nowadays, there are many new materials (plastic, Royalex, Kevlar, etc.) on the market for both canoes and kayaks, and many canoes have become lighter than kayaks. Material will greatly affect weight, durability, and price.
• Stability: As a general rule, neither canoes nor kayaks are implicitly more stable. A lot of folks say that because you sit basically on the floor of a kayak your center of gravity is lower and therefore more stable. But who says that you can’t sit or kneel on the floor of a canoe, as it was done for centuries before? Generally speaking, for any craft, longer and skinnier means faster and less stable, while shorter and wider means slower but more stable.

 Solo canoes, tandem canoes, touring kayaks, recreational kayaks, sit inside kayaks, sit on top kayaks, plastic, fiberglass, Royalex, Kevlar - there are so many options available now that just weren’t around ten years ago. This means deciding which boat you’re going to purchase can become tricky and confusing. Here are some pointers that might make the process a little less confusing.

1. You will need to figure out what your individual needs are based on your primary use for the boat. If you want a boat primarily for expedition trips (paddling camping trips) that you might occasionally use for fishing, your needs are going to be much different from someone who wants a boat just for fishing. Different uses will translate into different boats or boat types.
2. Next give yourself enough time to research all of the different boats and materials that are now available, and get an idea about their prices. There are various ways you can do this: several paddling magazines publish buyers’ guides every year, and a lot of information can also be found on the internet (online forums and online reviews are two of the best ways to get information from folks who have the same interests as you).
3. Once you have some idea of what you want and a price range, get out and test paddle as many boats as possible. If you’re not an experienced paddler, it will be difficult for you to tell what boat “paddles better.” But you will be able to tell what boats are comfortable to sit in, easier for you to get in and out of, and what boats you can lift by yourself. When test paddling ask for feedback from the salesperson, and ask them what they fish out of and why.

Try and gather as much information as possible before making your purchase. Do your homework! There are a lot of used boats on the market because someone didn’t do theirs.

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